Stop for creative French cuisine at Brasserie Brixton

Denver’s food scene is making a big comeback – and we’re hungry to get out. With so many new businesses and old favorites to visit after more than a year of restaurant closures and restrictions, the choices can be overwhelming. So we serve Short Stop, with recommendations for things that should definitely be on your culinary short list. This week, head to Brasserie Brixton, a neighborhood restaurant offering creative French dishes.

What: Brixton Brewery

Or: 3701 Williams Street

When: Open from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. from Wednesday to Friday, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday

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For more information: Visit brasseriebrixton.com

The place: A few tables are seated outside the deep blue building that houses the Brixton Brewery, a pandemic-era addition to the Cole neighborhood restaurant that has faced great challenges since opening in July 2020 amid restrictions related to COVID.

Indeed, after only six months of operation, the French restaurant has completely transformed into (Le) Brix, a pizzeria specializing in square wood-fired pies. The move came after indoor restaurants closed in November 2020 for the second time – pizza has proven to be a pandemic favorite for those seeking comfort during the colder months of the country. year. But last March, Brasserie Brixton returned to its original form, as a neighborhood restaurant serving French cuisine, but with an emphasis on staying affordable and creative.

Brixton Brewery is the type of restaurant that people often complain about Denver doesn’t have enough of. And And it’s true. Neighborhood spots offering interesting, high-quality cuisine at affordable prices that make you a regular are hard to find.

While opening a French restaurant in a historically Hispanic and black neighborhood is an initiative that could spark discussions about gentrification, it’s also refreshing to see an independent restaurant pushing Denver’s dining scene forward instead, per example, from another In-N-Out or Shake Shack. And on the heels of news that celebrity chef Ludo Lefebvre will be opening a traditional French brasserie at a LoDo hotel later this fall, it seemed like time to check in with this local spot steeped in French traditions that has never not afraid to put your own touch on the classics.

What you eat: The menu changes regularly, though there are a few staples including the French Onion Soup-inspired Burger ($ 17) with Gruyere and the Actual French Onion Soup ($ 9), which is distinctly sweet thanks to the deeply caramelized onions.

The options are organized with smaller, shareable plates on top and larger appetizer-sized dishes on the bottom. While you can certainly drop a few hundred on a meal for two plus a bottle of wine, it’s also possible to have a good meal closer to the $ 30 per person range, especially if you stick to pouring money. tap wine for $ 7 a glass.

Having trouble making up your mind? Start with bread ($ 7) or, more precisely, a baguette with an orb of super creamy butter. It’s not complex, but it pairs perfectly with a glass of orange wine or a cocktail like Paris Sour with rye brandy, hibiscus, red wine and lemon.

After that, a matching order of small plates is a great way to get a feel for Brixton Brewery’s ability to showcase ingredients in a simple way while hitting you with unexpected flavors.

Tender, charred summer squash ($ 15) is served with a handful of crunchy green beans and crunchy marcona almonds on a bed of super-creamy ricotta. The kicker, however, is a pool of red-hued dressing made from nduja, a spicy, spreadable salami.

This dish, accompanied by the tartare ($ 18), makes for a hearty and fun meal. And if tartare turns you off a bit, this version will make you change your mind. Here, the finely ground beef (yes, it’s raw, but stick with me) is accompanied by thinly sliced ​​radish, pieces of tender turnip and slightly chewy pieces of fried dough, or Chinese donut. The whole thing is drizzled with spicy chili, which gives an exciting mix of flavors and textures that still make me want this tartare.

If you like desserts, finish with ricotta donuts served with miso caramel ($ 12).

Next time around, I want to splurge on duck ($ 31) and the new veggies that are popping up. And with any luck, the next time is not that far away.