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Inside Casa Del Toro, the new upscale Latin American restaurant in Hayward, the shelves are stocked with high-end tequilas, by far the biggest choice in town. A classically trained Oaxacan chef makes ceviche and halibut paella. And discerning diners indulge in $ 56 dry-aged rib eye.
This is not what you would expect from a restaurateur who “made a living entirely on rice, beans and tacos”.
But Alejandro Gamarra, a resident and restaurateur of Hayward for 28 years, is determined to make his beloved city a foodie destination and be the catalyst for other players in the industry to join him. He’s seen his potential since he dropped out of college in 1993 to start a taco truck, Tacos Acapulco, on the corner of West A Street and Royal Avenue.
“I was 22 and had three children,†says Gamarra, now the father of six. “It was my entry into the (restaurant) sector. “
Those humble beginnings paved the way for Gamarra’s restaurant group, Acapulco Taqueria, named after the first brick and mortar it opened at 310 W. A St. when its taco truck lease expired in 2004.
This taqueria was only half a mile from where he parked the truck, but nowadays it’s called Metro Taquero, a quick and laid-back place known for their simple street tacos and burritos. breathtaking, like a haystack stuffed with fries.
Today, the catering group includes two Taqueros Metro in Hayward and one in San Leandro. It opened the third in May 2020 – during the pandemic.
“I did my best to open this place in 2020 and it was a blessing,†Gamarra said. “It allowed everyone to work. “
Like pizza, tacos and burritos are pandemic proof. Its restaurants not only stayed open, they kept the 130 employees on the payroll. And a fourth Metro Taqueros is slated to open at Skywest Commons Mall in Hayward in January.
He remembers something Jerry Brown said when he was mayor of Oakland: “More people eat beans than caviar. And it stuck with me forever. It has been relevant to my life.
The Gamarra restaurant group also includes Mexican, a full-service bar and restaurant that opened in 2007, and yes, it named it after the 2001 film. “Some think it’s cheesy or even derogatory, but it’s not the case, â€he said. “We had looked at 100 names and at the end I said, ‘Let’s name it the Brad Pitt movie.’ And it worked. This is the classic Mexican restaurant.
But the 140 places Casa Del Toro, which took over the old Playt location at 1034 B St., is Gamarra’s first restaurant to venture beyond traditional Mexican cuisine. It offers a range of seasonal Latin American flavors, from paella to steaks from Gamarra’s native Argentina.
“We’re trying to bring something unique to Hayward, another standard,†says Gamarra. “This city gave me the opportunity to have a good life. It’s a natural progression for me to do this.
Hayward’s rapidly changing demographics and rising real estate development – he cites Lincoln Landing, a five-story, 445-unit residential building in North Hayward expected to be full by 2022 – is expected to spur a burgeoning food scene in the center. “Town,” said Gamarra.
“Hayward has had a bad rap over the years, but I think we’ve got a downtown that’s ready to explode,†he says. “And I think people who are used to traveling to Paradiso in San Leandro or one of the restaurants in downtown Oakland would like a place near their home.â€
To give them that, Gamarra has assembled a stellar team. He brought in executive chef Serafin Cruz from Lake Chalet in Oakland to produce the kind of hip yet refined tapas – think truffle fries, roasted bone marrow, crispy Aleppo Brussels sprouts – that were missing in the city center. And he chose mixologist and Hayward native Sam Jimenez, formerly of Emeryville’s Prizefighter and Oakland’s Chop Bar, to lead the beverage program.
The bar program offers a strong selection centered on the agave that you don’t see in these regions: 38 types of mezcal, 46 tequilas, plus sotol, a Mexican whiskey and a rare agave alcohol from Peru. The wine list focuses on Chile, Argentina, Mexico, and Spain, but expect Livermore, Lodi, and Paso Robles wines as well.
On the dinner menu, look for protein-based entrees, like wine-braised baby back ribs with cilantro mashed potatoes ($ 27) and mezcal-glazed king salmon with purple mashed potatoes ($ 27) $ 28). No wonder the tacos (you get two per order) are eye-catching: the rib eye steak is drizzled with Peruvian Rocoto sauce ($ 18) and the spicy rock cod gets the mango salsa and chipotle cream. Look for similar gourmet tacos to also display on the Mexican’s menu, closer to spring.
“We want to reduce this menu and train our cooks to be a little more elegant in the dish,” says Gamarra.
Details: La Casa del Toro is open 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday at 1034 B St. in Hayward. Book at https://casadeltororestaurant.com. The Mexican is open for lunch and dinner daily for meals, take out and deliveries at 19950 Hesperian Blvd. to Hayward; www.themexicanhayward.com. Find details on Metro Taquero’s next four locations at www.metrotaquero.com.
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